The loudspeaker involves electromechanical processes where the amplified audio signal must move a cone or other mechanical device to produce sound like the original sound wave. This process involves many difficulties, and usually is the most imperfect of the steps in sound reproduction. Choose your speakers carefully. Some basic ideas about speaker enclosures might help with perspective. Once you have chosen a good loudspeaker from a reputable manufacturer and paid a good price for it, you might presume that you would get good sound reproduction from it.
But you won't not without a good enclosure. The enclosure is an essential part of sound production because of the following problems with a direct radiating loudspeaker:. An enormous amount of engineering work has gone into the design of today's dynamic loudspeaker. A light voice coil is mounted so that it can move freely inside the magnetic field of a strong permanent magnet.
The speaker cone is attached to the voice coil and attached with a flexible mounting to the outer ring of the speaker support. Because there is a definite "home" or equilibrium position for the speaker cone and there is elasticity of the mounting structure, there is inevitably a free cone resonant frequency like that of a mass on a spring. The frequency can be determined by adjusting the mass and stiffness of the cone and voice coil, and it can be damped and broadened by the nature of the construction, but that natural mechanical frequency of vibration is always there and enhances the frequencies in the frequency range near resonance.
Part of the role of a good enclosure is to minimize the impact of this resonant frequency. The production of a good high-fidelity loudspeaker requires that the speakers be enclosed because of a number of basic properties of loudspeakers.
Just putting a single dynamic loudspeaker in a closed box will improve its sound quality dramatically. Modern loudspeaker enclosures typically involve multiple loudspeakers with a crossover network to provide a more nearly uniform frequency response across the audio frequency range. Other techniques such as those used in bass reflex enclosures may be used to extend the useful bass range of the loudspeakers. The nature of the enclosure can affect the efficiency and the directionality of a loudspeaker.
See the full definition for loudspeaker in the English Language Learners Dictionary. Nglish: Translation of loudspeaker for Spanish Speakers.
Britannica English: Translation of loudspeaker for Arabic Speakers. What made you want to look up loudspeaker? Please tell us where you read or heard it including the quote, if possible. Subscribe to America's largest dictionary and get thousands more definitions and advanced search—ad free! Top 10 Latin Phrases. Color names taken from paintings, flowers, fleas A simple trick to keep them separate. How 'literally' can mean "figuratively". Transformer taps at W, W and W. IP 55 weather rated. Designed to be impervious to weather and temperature extremes.
It's most often paired with models HTC, HTH, In this important stage the front panel dimensions and drivers placement has to be correct - or as intended. Numerous crossovers were tested before finally things fell into place. The litmus test was taking my turntable to the workshop to make sure the final crossover was it.
Usually I take the speakers to our living room, but moving the turntable was easier. Now, a speaker this size has its own problems, size and weight! One side alone is some 9 kgs and once all put together you don't just flip over cabinets for sanding or whatever. Every operation takes some consideration. The outer shell will be some 50 kgs, and then comes bracing, mid cabinet, crossover cabinet, Hypex cabinet, etc.
I guess we'll end up around 70 kg alone for the finished cabinet. I'll add wheels to the base frame to be able to move the monsters around What she didn't tell was that 27 mm only comes in x cm!
These cabs are not done over the weekend! Prepare sides, bottom and top panels and hold together with straps like seen on image. Prepare for the two upper braces and midrange cabinet, so this can be inserted when the cabs are assembled.
First step is gluing outer panels, two upper braces with mid cabinet and the upper part of the rear panel in one take. Compartment for crossover and Hypex will have to added later. It's important not to put too many things into play at once.
We have like 10 minutes before the glue starts settling. Also make sure you have large angle square ruler! I have three of these Bessey angle strap clamps. Make also sure you have a plane working table, here some 30 cm tall. These cabs are HUGE and a lot of things have to be done differently compared to the usual liter cabs.
If you use strap clamps, add two clamps at the middle of the cabinets, front and rear, to make sure it's mm width! All of a sudden I found out I had tightened the straps so much the cabs started bulging on the middle being mm wide. Had the glue dried, I'd been in trouble. Preparing the two upper braces with midrange cabinet. Click images above to view large. Preparing rear panel and cutting to length. The lower part of the rear panel will be attached with screws for access to crossover.
It goes without saying that the crossover shall NOT be placed in the bass cabinet. The pressure from the 18" bass driver is enormous. Adding upper panel in crossover housing. Gluing rear panel. Preparing crossover compartment and adding loads of fillets. Right: All fillets in place. For front edges I used maple solid wood.
Marking drivers and preparing for routing. Routing and jig-sawing for drivers. DO NOT forget to chamfer mid driver hole! Bass driver hole doesn't need chamfering, lots of space here. Testing driver routings. Did I tell these cabs are huge? No need to flush mount drivers - which makes it much easier. Routing for the Hypex modules.
The Hypex module does not have to be flush mounted, but it looks nice when done. The Hypex compartment is big enough for housing this or any coming Hypex Fusion module, except FA, but I'm not going to use this 3-way module.
FA is the candidate for replacements. Download Fusion series here. Mounting the crossovers. Cabinet damping. Cover all internal panels except front panel with 8 mm felt material. Two layers of acoustilux at bottom of cabinet. One layer of acoustilux around bass driver. Place two layers of acoustilux at top of cabinet. Fasten with staples. Fill midrange cabinet with wool, approx. Mounting drivers - finally The horn had a foam gasket.
Here the speaker with the Wiawave GRT as super-tweeter. Use ATiRi baffle dimensions and place from speaker front panel. Stands for the monsters and super-tweeter support. First of all, if we think measurements will tell us how a speaker sounds, we're wrong. The perception of sound is way too subjective to be reflected in any measurements we can perform. A loudspeaker system is meant to give us a satisfying idea of an acoustic event and for some people a pair of 5 USD ear-plugs are enough, others spend kUSD on a truly full-range pair of speakers - and the latter may not be happier than the former.
Measurements may give us an idea of tonal balance of a system, i. Measurements may tell us about bass extension if far-field measurements are merged with near-field measurements. In addition to this, ports may contribute to bass extension. Most of we diy'ers do not have access to an anechoic room for full-range measurements from Hz. What cannot be seen is what kind of bass performance we get in a given room.
Bass performance is highly dependent on in-room placement of your speaker and the same speaker can be boomy in one place and lean in another. Actual SPL level at 1 meter distance and 2. What measurements do not tell is the very sound of the speaker unless displaying serious linear distortion.
The level of transparency, the ability to resolve micro-details, the "speed" of the bass, etc. Distortion measurements rarely tell much unless seriously bad, and most modern drivers display low distortion within their specified operating range.
Many people put way too much into these graphs and my comments here are only meant as warning against over-interpretation. There are more to good sound than what can be extracted from a few graphs. Every graph needs interpretation in terms of what it means sonically and how it impacts our choice of mating drivers, cabinet and crossover design.
What measurements certainly do not tell is the sonic signature of the speaker, because speaker cones made from polypropylene, aluminum, Kevlar, paper, glass fiber, carbon fiber, magnesium, ceramics or even diamonds all have their way of adding spices to the stew. Nor do measurements tell what impact the quality of the crossover components add to the sound, from state of the art components to the cheapest of coils and caps, they all measure the same if values are correct, yet sound very different.
The horns Back to drivers. Compared to what I've had to work with in the past, this horn is a piece of cake and should make it easy to target a high-pass filter around 1. Above the horn on actual baffle. Slightly smoother roll-off towards low-end, but also a minor bump at 3 kHz. Kind of a clean bill, isn't it? Impedance of horn-loaded compression drivers usually looks horrible, and this is no exception, although is does fairly well above 1 kHz.
Innerfidelity review here, testi may 2020, on mds growth, audeze sensory experience, july 2000 stereophile, dan filharmonik diraja, 6 sp9 mkii, glory and aggrandisement, vanishingly low distortion, in your ear, series audiostream