Based on a single a tube also equivalent types such as and 2C51 4X of Gain we prefer lower gain to higher distortion , 2V Output at Nominal, 0. Surrounded by the big amps. Its hybrid tube-transistor design gives the PRELUDE the ability to drive a range of triode amps — from triode to high-powered solid state.
And the sweetness of the WEa tube is simply addictive and euphonic. And now.. Just in case you plan to put it on top of an heirloom, Audiomat supplies three little bronze cups in which these cones may sit.
However, remove the cups and the sound is just a little tighter, a shade more focussed sounding. Yes, my beautiful, sonically superb audiophile table looks like hell when you remove the amplifier, but the solution is obvious. Do not remove the amplifier and do not use the shelf to support the minuscule phono stage you bought. The back of the amplifier is much easier to work with than that of most others.
Too many amplifiers have their input sockets places so closely together that attaching, tightening and loosening your RCA connectors are almost impossible operations for anyone whose fingers are thicker than a sparrow's claws. There are five input receptacles and one pair of tape outs. However, no tape loop or pre-amp outs are available. The speaker terminals are also easy to get at, and having two complete sets of them means that bi-wiring is easy.
However, despite the amplifier's impressive quality throughout, Audiomat uses those awful plastic terminal tightening nuts. They invariably lose their grip on the metal nuts that do the actual gripping of your spade lugs or wire once you try to tighten them with your little speaker terminal wrench. It is also meticulously assembled. When you buy an Audiomat, you buy a gem of handmade manufacture. The solder joints, the layout, the arrangement of the wires; every bit of it is enormously impressive for its obvious care.
Sometimes, there is a wait to get an Audiomat and the reason is obvious. The company, founded by two brothers in , has three people building amplifiers in batches of Audiomat takes years to perfect their products before release. The sound you hear is the result of this care. In the months I have listened to this amplifier, I have learned that it handles all kinds of music with accuracy and musicality.
It also handles a wide range for loudspeakers with ease: that big power supply gives it the drive to take on chores which belie its rated 30 watt per channel output.
You also cannot let the power rating dissuade you if you demand that your system rock. This amplifier has enough bass slam to satisfy anyone. Although deep in frequency, the LCR circuit does add to proper phase integration between bass and mid.
Measurements not shown. I was pleased to see this; no spooky dips or peaks in upper mid and treble range.
I think this is enough. Basically measurements tell very little - if anything - about how a speaker actually sounds. No compression allowed here! Chamfer 45 deg down to mm from edge of rebate. Left: Modifying existing cabs took serious measures! Right: Inserting panel for mid cab.
Left: Gluing part of old front panel. Right: Checking out driver rebates. A fresh router bit can handle the brittle oak veneer and leave sharp edges. Left: New tweeter calls for experiments before routing the final cab front panels. Would the simulated crossover fit real life? It did. Right: Covered dome ready for routing. Routing for the tweeter may discomfort some people, but it's easy.
Your router bit use an old one will easily cut through the aluminium face plate, but it has to be done slowly. Lower router bit some 0. The tweeter comes with a fixed gasket and from my experience, some 5. Cover the dome with a piece of gaffa tape 70 x 70 mm and don't forget to add a piece of paper 50 x 50 mm where it covers the dome!! After routing, clean the cut-out edge with fine grade sanding paper and run a black marker over the edge.
I'm sure I'll have the question if this is really necessary, and why can't I just mount the tweeter below the middriver? Well, vertical dispersion is not a nice view when dealing with low order filters and having the drivers as close as possible helps, so Front panels modified for tweeters. Box damping. I use two materials: 10 mm green felt and MDM3 Monacor. Before adding damping material, 4 mm bitumen pads were added to all internal panels except front panel.
Nothing except felt material on top and bottom. That's all. Upper : As can be seen we have some dB difference at Hz and the notch filter produces and overall smoother response. The huge phase shift at 50 Hz is gone, but still remains around Hz. Only thing is that we may have to use a uF electrolytic capacitor.
The CrossCap range does include a uF value, but it is huge: 68 x mm and I hardly have room for more. And it's around 70 USD each. Without having tested this addition, I render it an interesting option for adjusting the speaker to various room positions. It was initially thought to provide a most affordable and extremely compact full range speaker system to accommodate the most demanding audiophiles and music lovers where budget and space are of most concern, besides performance in sound.
The design team at Silverline developed an integrated driver system including a ultra light weight and extremely rigid diaphragm made from an ultra light weight alloy of aluminum and magnesium, and a redesigned magnet motor. Right: AudioTechnology TS data. After burn-in:. Having played the 10C77s for a month I measured this. Qt a bit down, Vas a bit up. I expect the drivers to only change a little after this. Variation is remarkably low. Comparing 10" bass drivers.
Box simulation 10CKAP. First of all I do not intend to make a vented system for this bass driver, rather a transmission line cabinet. But before doing so, I want to investigate the vented option to get a better feel of the driver and its performance from a typical bass reflex enclosure. Getting any 10" driver in hand we usually start thinking of some liter cabs. Most 10" drivers will produce decent bass from this size cabinet unless TS data are severely "out of range", i.
Ideally only drivers with a Qt close to 0. As few drivers are even close to this requirement, we tend to use too large cabinets for low-Qt drivers and too small cabinets for high-Qt drivers. A textbook QB3 tuning for the 10C77 driver will dictate some liters and obviously this is too small. It would seriously compromise low-end extension, thus liter volume has been tried in LspCAD to predict performance and this is really where we're heading if a vented box was to be.
Below examples of 45 and 55 liter cabs from calculated from AT data left row and my data right row despite drivers not broken in. In fact, the lack of break-in does very little to the performance as can be seen.
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